A vast network of airways, railways and highways originate form Calcutta, the gateway of eastern India. places of historical, ethnic and cultural interest and also wildlife sanctuaries can be easily and conveniently planned and reached from Calcutta. The West Bengal Tourist Bureau organizes conducted tours in the State. Booking at tourist lodges and forest bungalows can be made from these offices three months in advance. Other states too have tourist offices in the city and conduct package tours originating in Calcutta.

By Indian standards Calcutta certainly is a new city, only 300 years old. It is a European city, planted on the soil of Asia, though the inhabitants are brown and clad in white dhoti and Kurta. They are also too many of them crowded in an area of 1380 square meters which was not meant even for half of them. The first recorded mention of Calcutta was found in the Ain-i-Akabari in 1596. The Bysacks, traditional weavers of Bengal, and the Seths, merchant bankers, had established SUTANATI which, as the name implies, was the 'Cottonopolis' of Bengal. Calcutta grew around the villages of Kalikata, Sutanati, Govindapur, and CHITPORE on the east bank of the Hooghly river and SALKIA and BETOR on its West Bank, On the south fringe was safe from the Dutch, the French and the Danes on the opposite bank of the river, Eastwards extended the protective SALTS LAKES, the draining board of Calcutta. Job Charnock was Calcutta's first Governor. Looking back, it may be said that Calcutta's existence hangs on a doctor's prescription. In 1640, Gabriel Boughton, an English surgeon, effected a royal cure for which the fee asked for and granted was the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan's concession of free trade in Bengal.

Permission was granted to the East India Company to purchase the three villages of Sutanati, Kalikata and Govindapur in the immediate neighbourhood of the Fort. The negotiation price, we are told, was RS. 16,000 and the purchase price in 1690 was RS. 1,300. This single transaction was of great importance. The Company, till now just an adventurous group, became landowners with a landlord's prerogatives. The Union Jack was hosted for the first time in 1702 on FORT WILLIAM. The Maharatta invasion of Bengal broke the monopoly of life in Calcutta and led to the digging of the five km Maharatta Ditch, the preset CIRCULAR ROAD, from where the sobriquet 'Ditcher' came to be coined and applied to the Anglo-Indian. Of greater consequence was the defeat of the British by the then Nawab of Bengal, Siraj-ud-daula in 1756. The town was rescued a few months later by Robert Clive and Admiral Watson from Chennai, and the Battle of Plassey in 1757 was a victory of British diplomacy and intrigue. In 1773, the capital was transferred from Chennai to Calcutta and it grew into the second city of the Empire.

In 1803, Lord Wellesley constituted an Improvement Committee for the city that a decade later became the Lottery Commission which by running lotteries raised funds for buildings such as the TOWN HALL (1813), which still stand today, and a number of roads. New buildings and institutions burgeoned. The European settlement moved out form the fortified quarter in TANK SQUARE, now BENOY BADAL DINESH BAGH (BBD Bagh), and CHOWRINGHEE took shape. It was James Atkinson who in 1824 first gave Calcutta the epithet " City of Palaces" Calcutta was likened by his contemporaries to St. Petersburg and London. The climate had its effect and the buildings have since crumbled and nothing looks new. From the mid-19th century, the age of laissez faire brought individual free traders to Calcutta. At the turn of the century, Municipal markets were a regular feature. Tramways and street lighting appeared. The town of Howrah was linked to Calcutta by a pontoon bridge in 1874. When the British strengthened Fort Williams in 1780, they cleared the vast jungles for target practice from the Fort and to prevent any sneak invasion. An interesting fact is that not a single angry shot was fired from this Fort. It was around and near the Maidan that the city started coming up. It was also around and near the Maidan that the city started coming up. It was also here that they decided to build a memorial to the British Empire called VICTORIA MEMORIAL. Gradually, the whole of India came under the British rule and Calcutta continued to be the capital of India, even when the company forfeited the empire to the British throne. Politically conscious Bengal was always a tough nut to chew for the British Empire. It was one of the important reasons for the transfer of the capital from Calcutta to Delhi. In order to weaken Bengali solidarity, Lord Curzon partitioned the State into two parts, East and West Bengal, in 1905. But the resultant agitation forced him to withdraw the order 5 years later. However, the British did divide Bengal at the time of their departure, though with the consent of the feuding Congress and Muslim League parties. Partition in 1947 left only 88,000 square km. with Calcutta as its capital, and East Pakistan, now Bangladesh, got an area of 1,44,000 square km. and Dhaka became the capital of Bangladesh. From a 10,000 strong trading center 200 years ago, Calcutta Metropolitan District is today eight times the size of Washington and is the largest urban center in India and the second largest city in the British Commonwealth after London. It houses more people than the entire population of its hinterland encompasses the eastern and northeastern zones of India. The rich mineral deposits of iron ore, manganese and limestone find their way to other parts of the world through Calcutta Port, Chittaranjan in West Bengal. Calcutta's role in the national economy is crucial as the gateway to Eastern India. Today Calcutta is a weird combination of good and bad. Palaces and slums, theatre, dance, art and all-around pollution. Despite all these contrasts, Calcutta certainly has a vibrant soul. The normal sightseeing tours of the city often start from the West Bengal Tourist Office in the historic DALHOUSIE SQUARE- the new name is difficult to pronounce-BENOY BADAL DINESH BAGH (BBD BAGH). A city bus tour organized by the west Bengal Tourist Bureau offers good value for money. a trained guide escorts the tours.

However, you are free to see the city independently in a hired tourist car with a guide who speaks your language. It is also a bargain considering the prices in Europe and America. We start with SAINT JOHN'S CHURCH where Job Charlock founder of Calcutta is buried. The mausoleum over his grave was perhaps the first piece of masonry erected by the British in Calcutta which is still standing. A brass line inlaid on the steps of the General Post Office (GPO) marks the position of the south-eastern bastion of the OLD FORT WILLIAM (1707) where the imposing modern Post Office, Customs House and Eastern Railway building now stand. Calcutta's oldest building- the sole relic of the old Fort-stands beside the GPO and it houses the Collectorate. WRITERS BUILDING, once plain squat barracks for the East India Company's writers (clerks), has been extended, decorated and refronted with a Corinthian facade and fills the northern end of BBD BAGH. The state government machinery operates from here and has spilled over into a 14-storeyed building, the NEW SECRETARIAT on the extension of the Strand not for from No. 7 Hastings Street, the one time residence of Warren Hastings.

Old Calcutta had its theatres and as the city expanded, the theatre followed, to CHOWRINGHEE and PARK STREET. A part of ST. XAVIER'S COLLEGE is the mid-19th century SANS SOUCI THEATRE where during, World War II the troops were entertained.

CONDUCTED TOURS
Regular and guided tours of the city organized by ITDC and the West Bengal Tourism Corporation is available. West Bengal Tourism organizes regular package tours to other states of India.

ENTERTAINMENT
The classical and folk music of Bengal, Rabindra Sangeet (the music of Tagore's compositions) masked Chhau and tribal dances of the Santhals, the art Cinema, and the Bengali theatre are all available to the visitor. Dramas and cultural shows are regularly held in theatres like the Rabindra Sadan, the Academy of Fine Arts, Kala Mandir, Vidya Mandir, Mahajati Sadan, Biswarupa, Star, etc.

EXCURSIONS
1. BELUR MATH (16 km.), headquarters of the Ramakrishan Mission, a Hindu service organization set up by Swami Vivekananda a disciple of the great saint, Ramakrishna Paramahansa.

2. BOTANICAL GARDENS (19 km.), an impressive oasis of green trees and plants, especially noted for its gigantic over 200 years old Banyan tree.

3. DAKSHINESHWAR KALI TEMPLE, famous for its associations with Sri Ramakrishna.

4. GANDHI GHAT (25 km.), where the Hoogly river turns towards the sea. Beyond is Bakkhali (132 km.) With a good beach.

5. NABADWIP (114 km.), the birthplace of Saint Chaitanya is the scene of many colorful festivals.

6. SUNDERBANS (131 km.), a forest in the river delta, where wildlife is in abundance.

7. SANTINIKETAN (211 km.), the site of the open-air school started by Rabindranath Tagore. It now houses the Vishwabharati international University.

8. DIGHA (185 km.), a beautiful beach resort.

HOW TO GWT THERE

By Air: Calcutta is an international airport connected with all parts of the world. Indian Airlines connects Calcutta with all-important airports in India. Major private airlines also operate to Calcutta. About a dozen international airlines fly into Calcutta.

By Rail: Calcutta is connected by rail with all the major city and towns of India.

By Road: Calcutta is connected by road to

211 km from Santiniketan 131 km from Sunderbans 185 km from Digha 685 km from Darjeeling There are regular bus services to Puri, Bhubaneswar, Konark in Orissa, Siliguri (for Darjeeling), Malda, etc.

LOCAL TRANSPORT
Tourist taxis, metered taxis, metered auto-rickshaws, tangas, cycle-rickshaws, city buses and the Metro railway is available. Ferry services are also available.

LOCAL FESTIVALS
1. GANGA SAGAR MELA (January) at Sagar (105 Km.), where the Hoogly joins the sea. A large number of pilgrims congregate here to take a dip in the holy waters.

2. MAHESH YATRA (June-July), a car festival, particularly famous at Serampore (25 Km.).

3. DURGA PUJA (Sept-Oct) is the most important festival of Bengal celebrated with music, dance and drama lasting 10 days. Huge figures of the Goddess Durga are worshipped in beautifully illuminated and decorated shamianas. ../images are immersed in rivers on the last day of the festivities.

SHOPPING
Terracotta Bankura folk artifact, painted clay and ceramics, bell metal and brass figurines, handicrafts made of pith, conch shell and shola (sponge wood), handloom silks and intricately carved gold jewelry are a few of the wide range of shopping opportunities. In addition, handicrafts of Assam, Tripura and the North-eastern states are also sold in Calcutta.

WHAT TO SEE

JAIN TEMPLE
Jain Temple. Mirror and colored glass-encrusted and with multi-colored chandeliers, this temple, built, in 1867, sparkles in the sun.

MRABLE PALACE
The MARBLE PALACE (1855) in a narrow lane off Chittaranjan Avenue welcomes visitors to wander freely between the hours of 11 and 4 for nothing more than a signature in the visitor's book. Recently, it has been found necessary for visitors to get passes from the Tourist Bureau before proceeding to the palace. Skirting LA MARTINIERE, Claud Martin's school, the only educational institution in the world with battle honours we go further south to the lake area of RABINDRA SAROBAR. A JAPANESE BUDDHIST TEMPLE nestles in its environs. The dignified edifice of the RAMAKRISHNA MISSION INSTITUTE OF CULTURE and the BIRLA ACADEMY OF ART AND CULTURE are close by. Still further south, JADAVPUR UNIVERSITY spreads its sprawling campus. A boat ride will not disappoint you for Calcutta looks her best when viewed from the river. Half a day may be set aside for a trip to the temples of BELUR and DAKSHINESWAR TEMPLE on opposite banks. Rani Rashmoni received divine directions in a dream to build the NAVRATNA KALI temple at Dakshineswar (1855). The saintly Sri Ramakrishna lived and worshipped here. Twelve monolith Shiva temples line the waterfront. As we cross the river to BELUR MATH on the western bank, there is a clear view of the river. Belur Math is the headquarters of the international missions of the monastic order of Sri Ramakrishna. The architecture represents a church, a mosque and a temple when viewed from different angles, truly symbolic of the founder's universality of belief. built in 1899, the mission was founded by Swami Vivekananda the internationally known philosopher and disciple of Sri Ramakrishna.

In the city you are sure to notice ladies clad in blue and white saris. They are Mother Teresa's army, the Missionaries of Charity. Mother Teresa, the living saint of Calcutta, her SHISHU BHAVANS and HOMES FOR THE DYING is worth a visit. A silver cantilever bridge is the only direct road link with Calcutta and the flow of traffic, like the river, is never ending. If you are caught on the bridge in one of its usual traffic snarls look for the flower market below at the Calcutta end of the bridge - thousands of orange, marigolds and crimson hibiscus garlands, and the river craft, a wide assortment of unsophisticated launches, barges and dinghies will amaze you. The outline of greater Calcutta is like a giant's footprint with the toe pointing northwards to the only direction of expansion. The grand plans for Calcutta AD 2000 are off the drawing board and a 'Garland' canal for inland water transport and a circular railway has almost been completed. The tramways may still be there in the 21st century as they cause the least pollution. Two new Flyovers are in South Calcutta and another near Esplanade are on the cards - one has since opened. Marble Palace a one-man collection of art treasures.

RABINDRA SAROBAR
Rabindra Sarobar, a lake with parks and rowing clubs where regattas are held.

RAMAKRISHNA MISSION INSTITUTE OF CULTURE
Ramakrishna Mission Institute of Culture, a magnificent building housing an institute promoting India's cultural heritage.

St. ANDREW'S CUURCH
ST. JOHN'S the first Anglican Cathedral was consecrated in 1787. Built of chuna stone in Doric order it resemble St. Martin-in-the-Fields. Puncturing the cityscape on Old Court Street is the spire of ST. ANDREW'S CHURCH opened in 1818, the Scots Kirk, Grecian in style. Through RED CROSS PLACE we step at GOVERNMENT HOUSE (1803), now RAJ BHAVAN, the residence of the Governor of West Bengal. An adaptation of Kedleston Hall by Wyatt, this splendid Georgian building in Palladian style was the centerpiece and model for the 'City of Palace'. The imperial design of its monumental gateways catches the eye of the passerby.

Further west and almost on the river which once flowed along Strand Road, the HIGH COURT catches the eye. impressive replica of the original Stadd-Haus at Pyres in Belgium, Walter Granille designed it.

Opposite the High Court is the LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY where the local representatives meet. It is open to the public at the annual Chrysanthemum shows which herald in the "season". The Imperial Library occupied METCALFE HALL (1844) at the junction of Strand Road and Hare street erected to commemorate Lord Metcalfe and his great achievement the emancipation of the press. designed after the portico of the Temple of Winds at Athens, the building is raised on a solid ornamental basement and its 30 columns rising up to 36 feet give the appearance of a Greek temple. The library has since moved to BELVEDERE in ALIPORE.

The STATUE OF NETAJI SUBHAS CHANDRA BOSE with arm outstretched commands RED ROAD is renamed INDIRA SARANI. Lord Curzon saw Calcutta as an imperial city and erected statues in memory of British Indian heroes on both sides of the road, now replaced by heroes of the freedom struggle. The former have been retired to the Victoria Memorial and to BARRACKPORE, once a military cantonment and summer residence of the Governor - general. At the intersection of the Victoria memorial gardens and Red Road extension, Jatin Mukherjee, a freedom fighter is mounted on a horse.

During World War II, Red Road was used as a runway for British army fighter planes. For the last four decades, Republic and Independence Day ceremonial parades are held here. The CHOWRINGHEE GATE of the new Fort William opens to Red Road. Started by Clive in 1757 and completed 16 years later, Fort William altered the entire plan for Calcutta. A large open space for an unrestricted field of fire gave birth to the Maidan. around it grew a magnificent collection of public buildings and "garden houses". One of the earliest garden settlements were in Alipore. Belvedere, of uncertain antiquity, now the National Library, was the residence of the Lieutenant Governors of Bengal for some time. After the victory at Plassey (1757), the city grew without restriction southwards along the pilgrim's road Chowringhee-presently Jawahar Lal Nehru Road - to the Kali Temple at Kalighat. Here the presiding deity, Ma Kale, draws the largest number of devotees, especially on festive occasions such as the Bengali New Year (April) and Diwali (October-November) better known as Durga Puja.

Returning to Chowringhee, the INDIAN MUSEUM or "Jadu Ghar", designed by the architect of the High Court, Walter Granville presents a 300 foot frontage rising two stories in Italian architectural style dating to 1814. The central portico has elegant Corinthian columns. Adjoining the museum is the GOVERNMENT ART SCHOOL. Out side, on its Edwardian railings, young artists often display their works of art.

The GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA,
once the United Services club, is another colonial construction. It conjures up an old Calcutta social scene of crinolines ladies and gallant braves in lace and ruffles tripping lightly through the halls of the club till the wee hours of the morning. Multistoried office building rise from the pavement. Part of the BENGAL CLUB (1827), The oldest club in India, is the office of the Metro Rail. Early morning or late afternoon is an ideal time to visit the MAIDAN. Once a dense forest infested with tigers, jackals, snakes and dacoits, it is today the city's playground. Calcutta, like many other cities, also has its column. Rising over 150 feet at the northern end of the Maidan it is an Egyptian plinth crowned by a Turkish cupola. It was built to commemorate the hero of the Indo-Nepalese war Maj.-General Sir David Ochterlony, and has been renamed SAHEED MINAR to remember those who died for the freedom of the country.

VICTORIA MEMORIAL
The VICTORIA MEMORIAL dominates the Maidan. It's marble bricks came from the quarries of Makrana in Jaipur Rajashtan the suppliers for the Taj Mahal. The extensive gardens with cannas beds and tanks are a favourite place for morning jogs or leisurely walks by the senior citizens. Its hybrid architecture, surmounted by a crowning dome, has a huge bronze revolving ANGEL OF VICTORY which functions as a weather cook. Opened by the Prince o Wales in 1921, the Victoria Memorial houses within its spacious galleries some of the memorabilia of the Raj and personal effects of Queen Victoria. The eye travels from the dome to the tower of ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL besides the Victoria Memorial - the steeple fell in the earthquake of 1897. outside the gates of St. Paul's is the post- independence BIRLA PLANETARIUM (1962), another of India's firsts in Calcutta. A drive around its 4 km. perimeter at the RACECOURSE evokes the racing scenes when His Highness, the late Haile Selassie Emperor of Ethiopia, and Queen Elizabeth II among other distinguished visitors watched the classic events with the enthusiastic Indian crowds. And now to PARK STREET, best described as downtown Calcutta. This street, vibrating with life, was once called Burial Ground Road because it was the way to God's Little Acre, on the outskirts of the town. The focal point of executive life in the city, Park Street's shops and restaurants are well stocked and well appointed. Besides Kwality Restaurant retiring behind iron gates and tall palms, is the BENGAL MASONIC LODGE, the headquarters of Free Masonry in the East, dating back to 1728. Close in Ezra Street is the Parsi Agiaree or FIRE TEMPLE and the HEBREW SYNAGOGUES. The ARMENIAN CHURCH off Brabourne road has the oldest gravestone (1630) which has presented an enigma: Who came to Calcutta first, the english or the Armenians?

The Portuguese residences in MANGO LANE and TIRETTA BAZAR, ornate villas with cast iron railings enclosing narrow projections, can still be seen amidst the changing topography of this area - once the Grey Town. from ESPLANDE we will explore the Grey Town to the east along the broad D'Oyley Avenue, Dharamtalla, now LENIN SARANI, featuring the Portuguese CHURCH OF THE SACRED HEART OF JESUS (1834). The layout of the town divided the European settlements and the native quarters. Over the jumble of house-tops, TV antennae and overhead tram wires the great NAKHODA MOSQUE built in 1926 by Abdur Rahim a Cutchee merchant, is visible. JORASANKE, the home of the merchant Prince Dwarkanath Tagore and his illustrious grandson Rabindranath is the RABINDRA BHARATI UNIVERSITY and the museum.

Victoria Memorial opened in 1921 by the Prince of Wales, is an impressive white marbles building often called the Taj Mahal of the British Raj. Inside are the memorabilia of the British India.