A
Symphony Of Colours Against the backdrop of
dusty land and sun-soaked skies, Rajasthan is filled
with opulent colours, the sparkle of mirror and
silver and precious stones, and the sheen of silk
and vivid kaleidoscope of cotton. The exotic and
vividly colorful state of Rajasthan is synonymous
with majestic forts, stately palaces, lakes, sand
dunes, camels and people dressed in brightly
coloured costumes.
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To add a
dash of colour and life to the barren, colorless
landscape and the monotonous, cloudless sky, the
people of Rajasthan show a distinct preference for
bright costumes. From the simple village folk or
tribal belle to the royalty, the preferred colours
are bright red, dazzling yellow, lively green or
brilliant orange, highlighted by a lavish use of
sparkling gold and silver 'zari' or 'gota'.
The
dyers of Rajasthan and neighbouring Gujarat were
masters of their craft from the dawn of history.
Their unsurpassed skill is still evident in the
costumes worn by the Rajasthani people, both rich
and poor.
The study of the people of
Rajasthan is incomplete without the knowledge of
costumes and ornaments. The costumes of the present
have the reflections of the costumes of the past.
Clothes express one's personality and distinguish
people of different places from each other.
The Brilliance Of Hues Both males and
females dress in the customary dresses fully
influenced by climate, economy, status and the
profession. The traditional dresses being 'potia',
'dhoti', 'banda', 'angrakha', 'bugatari',
'pachewara', 'khol', 'dhabla', amongst Hindus; and
'tilak', 'burga', 'achkan' amongst Muslims, which
are fast changing now with 'bushirt', 'salwar' and
'skirts', saris and pants accordingly.
Turban, the head dress of Rajasthani men, is a
differential pattern, of each geographical region
designed to suit terrain and climatic influence. All
over Rajasthan, the 'bandhni', the tie-and-dye sari
and turban reign supreme.
The common dress
of the women constitutes (i) sari or 'odhani', (ii)
'kanchli' or 'kunchuki' or 'choli' (iii) 'ghaghra'
or 'ghaghri' or 'lahanga'. Besides, the women of
high status and ranks wear 'dupatta' and 'patka'.
The use of chappals or sandals or 'jutees'
is also common but ladies of high families use
coloured sandals studded with gold threads and
stars. The Diverse Attire
Royal Wardrobe The
rich and opulent dresses of the royalty were made
under the meticulous attention of special
departments in charge of royal costumes while the
'Ranghkhana' and the 'Chhapakhana' were departments
that took care of dyeing and printing the fabrics
respectively. The 'siwankhana' ensured its flawless
and articulate tailoring. Two special sections, the
'toshakhanand' and the 'kapaddwadra', took care of
the daily wear and formal costumes of the king.
Traditional
Textiles Rajasthani daily wear such as
saris, 'odhnis' and turbans are often made from
textiles using either block printed or tie-and-dye
techniques.
Rajput
Costumes The Rajput kings, owing their
close proximity to the Mughal court dressed up in
their colorful and formal best. Richly brocaded
material from Banaras and Gujarat, embroidered and
woven Kashmiri shawls and delicate cottons from
Chanderi and Dhaka were procured at great cost.
Women's Attire
Odhni
It is 10 feet long and 5 feet wide, One
corner is tucked in the skirt while the other end is
taken over the head and right shoulder. Colours and
motifs are particular to caste, type of costume and
occasion. Both Hindu and Muslims women wear
'odhnis'.
Pila An 'odhni' with a yellow
background and a central lotus motif in red called a
'pila', is a traditional gift of parent to their
daughter on the birth of a son. The vibrant and
colorful land of Rajasthan, with hospitable and
well-attired men and women add a splash of colour to
the otherwise parched landscape.
Men's
Attire The turban, variously called 'pagari',
'pencha', 'sela' or 'safa' depending on style, an
'angrakha' or 'achakan' as the upper garment and
'dhoti' or 'pyjama' as the lower garment make up the
male outfit.
Turban
Styles Varying styles of turban denote
region and caste. These variations are known by
different names such as 'pagari' and 'safa'. Infact,
there are about 1,000 different styles and types of
turbans in Rajasthan, each denoting the class, caste
and region of the wearer. Turbans come in all
shapes, sizes and colours; and there are specific
turbans for specific occasions as well.
A
'pagari' is usually 82 feet long and 8 inches wide.
A 'safa' is shorter and broader. The common man
wears turban of one color, while the elite wear
designs and colors according to the occasion.
Headgear
/ Turbans Varying styles of turban denote
region and caste. These variations are known by
different names such as 'pagari' and 'safa. Infact,
there are about 1,000 different styles and types of
turbans in Rajasthan, each denoting the class, caste
and region of the wearer. Turbans come in all
shapes, sizes and colours; and there are specific
turbans for specific occasions as well.
A
'pagari' is usually 82 feet long and 8 inches wide.
A 'safa' is shorter and broader. The common man
wears turban of one color, while the elite wear
designs and colors according to the occasion
Way
Of Dressing Traditional textiles Rajasthani
daily wear such as saris, 'odhnis' and turbans are
often made from textiles using either block printed
or tie-and-dye techniques.
Rajput
Costumes The Rajput kings, owing their
close proximity to the Mughal court dressed up in
their colorful and formal best. Richly brocaded
material from Banaras and Gujarat, embroidered and
woven Kashmiri shawls and delicate cottons from
Chanderi and Dhaka were procured at great cost.
Colours, Hues &
Themes Against the backdrop of dusty land
and sun-soaked skies, Rajasthan is filled with
opulent colours, the sparkle of mirror and silver
and precious stones, and the sheen of silk and vivid
kaleidoscope of cotton. The exotic and vividly
colorful state of Rajasthan is synonymous with
majestic forts, stately palaces, lakes, sand dunes,
camels and people dressed in brightly coloured
costumes.
To add a dash of colour and life
to the barren, colorless landscape and the
monotonous, cloudless sky, the people of Rajasthan
show a distinct preference for bright costumes.
From the simple village folk or tribal
belle to the royalty, the preferred colours are
bright red, dazzling yellow, lively green or
brilliant orange, highlighted by a lavish use of
sparkling gold and silver 'zari' or 'gota'.
The
dyers of Rajasthan and neighbouring Gujarat were
masters of their craft from the dawn of history.
Their unsurpassed skill is still evident in the
costumes worn by the Rajasthani people, both rich
and poor.
The study of the people of
Rajasthan is incomplete without the knowledge of
costumes and ornaments. The costumes of the present
have the reflections of the costumes of the past.
Clothes express one's personality and distinguish
people of different places from each other.
